Chain lubrication
From #MotoWiki
Chain lubrication is one of the most controversial and debated topics regarding motorcycle maintenance. There are many different methods and products to be used. This article is intended to guide you in making your own, educated decision.
Most chains on street motorcycles are o-ring style chains. This means there is lubricant in between the side plates already. The lubricant is sealed in via small rubber o-rings. The purpose of lubricating your chain is to keep these o-rings moist and pliable, preventing cracking and splitting. This will keep the grease in and the chain working properly.
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[edit] Chain Lubrication for the soul
The chain is the unsung hero of the motorcycle. Just sitting there, always doing it's job. No-one really looks at a chain and goes, "Wow, that chain does it's job WELL!" Chains are simply expected to do what they do. However I have heard people say, "Man, that chain F*#ked up my whole season!!!". If the chain fails, it uses its high velocity momentum to snap off a large chunk of the crank case in front of the counter sprocket. This thoroughly ruins anyone's day.
Keeping your chain well maintained and lubricated preserves power, quiets the noise on the bike, and is one of the easiest, yet most overlooked bits of motorcycle maintenance on a motorcycle. We at #motorcycles want to see the chain abuse stop, so we've created this, to answer some questions about keeping the drive on your bike happy.
[edit] Motor Oil
Most manufacturers maintenance procedures say to use plain old heavyweight motor oil. This is sufficient for the purpose of lubrication, however usually leads to a great deal of the oil flinging off onto surrounding parts. It may not be the cleanest, but it is what the manufacturer recommends.
[edit] Chain Wax
Chain wax is a paraffin based spray lubricant that is available from Maxima Racing Oils. It is marketed to hold up to high levels of heat and moisture well. It is an extremely popular product and many people stand by it. Chain Wax dries faster than other types of lube, but also requires more re-application to maintain the lubricating properties over time. Due to its paraffin base, the amount of fling from chain wax is minimal.
When applied liberally to a warm chain, and allowed to cool and dry for 15 minutes, the amount of fling from the chain is minimal. This is the strong selling point for Chain Wax. Chain wax is popular amongst riders who use the machine in an extreme performance environment, where mess is important and longevity compromised. Both dirt, and street racers tend to use wax.
[edit] Chain Lube
Chain lube refers to any one of many different products that are sold as purpose lubricants. These are usually aerosol cans with a specialized oil based lubricant. They are usually marketed for their longevity and fling-less properties. PJ's black label, Bel-ray super clean, and Motul off-road chain lubricants are the top competitors for sales, but all offer rougly the same product. A top notch lubricant, with nothing spared for cleanliness. While these lubrications may slather your swing arm, engine cases, and boots with gray slippery muck, the chain will last for years. Between lubricants and wax, the lubricant stays wetter and gets messier, but lasts much longer than the wax. Lubricants are popular amongst commuters, street riders, and riders who put lots of miles onto their machines.
[edit] Solvents
Many people swear by using such solvents as WD-40. They are a heavy oil-based fluid that is sold in aerosol form. To run a chain on WD-40 alone will result in a much shortened lifespan of the chain. WD-40 is more of a rust inhibitor than lubricant. The product contains water-displacing additives in what is primarily a solvent base. While this keeps water out of the chain, it dries quickly and leaves the rubber seal rings of the chain to wear against the chain links. Once these rubber sealing rings dry, they crack and the lubricant within that allows the pins of the chain to move freely will leak, causing the links to dry out and bind. WD-40 can be used as a lubricant, but it is inferior to either wax or lube in both longevity, and lubrication.
Best applied in the cleaning of the chain when preparing for a fresh application of your preferred type of chain lube. If it is all one has, WD-40 will do for the ride to a cycle gear to grab the real deal.
[edit] Application
Safety is of utmost concern when lubricating your chain. Please follow all instructions in the owner's manual for your motorcycle. The following are general guidelines for techniques used. Their is no warranty expressed or implied. Use the following methods at your own risk.
First, NEVER EVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES HAVE THE BIKE RUNNING! Many a rider has lost toes and fingers by trying to save time by letting the bike idle in 1st or 2nd so the rear wheel spins. This is just plain dangerous. Do not attempt.
Its best to perform your lubrication after riding so that the chain is warm and easily cleaned. Put the bike on a rearstand, or a centerstand if available, in order to get the rear tire off the ground. Put the bike into neutral so that the rear tire can move freely on the chain. Grab your can of lube and a rag. Choose a spot on the chain halfway between the two sprockets, below the swingarm. Hold or position the rag behind your spot on the chain. Holding the WD-40 aerosol, or chosen cleaner, 3-6 inches from the chain, begin to spray the chain liberally while rotating the rear wheel in reverse. You want the chain travelling towards the protected area of the counter shaft sprocket in order to minimize the chance of getting fingers and chain intermingled. once the chain is wet use the rag to remove the old lubrication and any debris from the chain. (It will only get so clean, its a chain do this quickly to keep the chain somewhat warm). Once you have cleaned the chain reasonably, we can apply the lube.
Hold or position the rag behind your spot on the chain. Holding the Lubricant aerosol 3-6 inches from the chain, begin to spray the chain liberally while rotating the rear wheel in reverse. Again, we want the chain travelling towards the protected area of the counter shaft sprocket in order to minimize the chance of getting fingers and chain intermingled. Continue this process until the chain is well coated with whatever lubricant you are using.
For Chain Wax: Allow the wax to cool for 15 minutes. Then you are good to ride, be ready to repeat this process after about 3000 miles or 1-2 trackdays.
For Other Lubricants: Once the chain is slathered in lubrication, use your rag, and very lightly wipe away the excess globs, Don't clean the chain of lubricant, just take a little bit off to reduce the fling on your swingarm and tailsection. You will want to repeat this after 5000-6000 miles, or again 2-3 trackdays. Keep an eye on your chain and if it begins to look less than sloppy, give it a little more as conditions may change with weather and type of riding.
